>

Spring Lawn Care Checklist for North Texas Homeowners

A month-by-month guide to getting your DFW lawn ready for the growing season — from pre-emergent timing to your first mow.

Published: April 18, 2026 By: CARE Team 5 min read

How Do You Wake Up Your Lawn in March?

March is when North Texas lawns transition from winter dormancy to active growth, and the work you do this month sets the tone for the entire season. The single most important task is applying pre-emergent herbicide before soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees Fahrenheit. In the DFW area, that window is typically late February through early March. If you miss it, crabgrass and other summer annuals will germinate and you will be fighting them all season. Early March is also the time to scalp your Bermuda grass — lower your mower to its lowest setting (about half an inch) and cut the brown, dormant turf down to expose the soil to sunlight. This encourages faster green-up and removes thatch buildup from winter. Bag the clippings from this scalp rather than mulching them. If you have not already, sharpen your mower blades before the first real cut. Dull blades tear grass rather than cutting it cleanly, leaving ragged tips that turn brown and invite disease. Finally, March is when weed control timing is most critical in North Texas — a week late on pre-emergent can mean months of extra work.

How Do You Handle Live Oak Leaf Cleanup in March?

If you moved to North Texas from another state, the spring leaf drop from live oaks can catch you off guard. Unlike most deciduous trees that shed in fall, live oaks are semi-evergreen and drop their leaves in March and April as new growth pushes old foliage off the branches. In neighborhoods across Keller, Southlake, and North Fort Worth, this creates a significant cleanup job right when you are trying to get your lawn started for the season. Left on the lawn, live oak leaves smother new grass growth and block sunlight from reaching the soil. They also clog gutters that were just cleaned after fall. The best approach is to mulch light accumulations with your mower and bag heavy deposits. For large properties with multiple live oaks, a professional leaf removal service can handle the volume efficiently. This is a uniquely Texas spring task that trips up a lot of new residents who are not expecting a second leaf season.

When Should You Do Your First Mow and Soil Test in April?

By April, Bermuda and St. Augustine lawns across the DFW area are actively growing and need their first proper mow of the season. Set your Bermuda mower height to 1 to 1.5 inches, or 2.5 to 3 inches for St. Augustine. Mow frequently enough that you never remove more than one-third of the blade height at once. April is also the ideal time for a soil test. North Texas soil tends toward alkaline with heavy clay content, which affects nutrient availability. A basic soil test from the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension costs about $15 and tells you exactly what your lawn needs. Most DFW soils are low in iron, which causes yellowing even in well-fertilized lawns. Knowing your soil pH and nutrient levels before you start your fertilization program prevents you from wasting money on nutrients your soil already has or missing ones it desperately needs. April is also when you should inspect and start up your irrigation system — check for broken heads, adjust spray patterns, and program your controller for the growing season ahead.

How Do You Start Irrigation in April?

Getting your irrigation system dialed in during April saves water and money all summer. In North Texas, most municipalities enforce watering restrictions that limit you to twice-per-week schedules, so every drop counts. Walk your entire system zone by zone and look for broken heads, heads that are spraying onto sidewalks or driveways, and zones with poor coverage. Replace any heads damaged by winter freezes — even one hard freeze can crack plastic risers. Set your controller to water in the early morning (before 6 AM) to minimize evaporation. Bermuda grass in DFW needs about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week during the growing season, including rainfall. Place a rain gauge or empty tuna can in your yard to measure actual output and run time. If your system does not have a rain sensor, install one — it costs under $30 and prevents your sprinklers from running during thunderstorms, which happen frequently in North Texas spring.

When Should You Apply the First Fertilization in May?

May is the right time for your first major fertilizer application on warm-season grasses in North Texas. The soil is warm, the grass is actively growing, and roots are ready to absorb nutrients. For Bermuda grass, use a balanced fertilizer with a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratio like 15-5-10 or 16-4-8. Apply at the rate recommended on the bag — more is not better and can burn your lawn. If your soil test from April showed low iron (common in DFW alkaline soils), add an iron supplement or choose a fertilizer that includes iron. Water in the fertilizer within 24 hours of application. A professional fertilization program typically includes five to seven applications between March and October, timed to your specific grass type and soil conditions. May is also when you will start seeing post-emergent weed breakthrough — any weeds that slipped past the pre-emergent barrier. Spot-treat these with a selective herbicide rated for your grass type rather than applying a broadcast treatment.

Should You Aerate Your Lawn in May?

North Texas clay soil compacts heavily under foot traffic, mowing equipment, and the natural settling that occurs through winter. Compacted soil prevents water, air, and nutrients from reaching grass roots, which means your irrigation and fertilizer dollars are partially wasted. Core aeration — pulling small plugs of soil from the lawn — relieves this compaction and creates channels for water and nutrients to penetrate. For warm-season grasses like Bermuda, the best aeration window in North Texas is late spring (May) or early fall (September through October) when the grass is actively growing and can recover quickly. Avoid aerating during summer stress or winter dormancy. In the DFW area, core aeration for a standard suburban lot typically runs $125 to $225. Many homeowners bundle aeration with fertilization or overseeding for a discount. If you have never aerated your North Texas lawn, you will likely see noticeable improvement in density and color within a few weeks of the first treatment.

What Spring Equipment and Maintenance Tips Should You Follow?

Before mowing season hits full stride, invest an hour in equipment maintenance that will save you headaches all year. Sharpen your mower blades — a sharp blade cuts cleanly and promotes healthy growth, while a dull blade tears grass and leaves it vulnerable to disease and browning. Most hardware stores sharpen blades for $5 to $10. Change your mower oil, replace the air filter, and check the spark plug. If you use a string trimmer, re-spool the line and inspect the cutting head for cracks. For edgers, check the blade for wear. Keep your equipment maintained and your lawn will show the difference. Spring is also a good time to refresh mulch in your landscape beds — two to three inches of fresh mulch suppresses weeds, retains moisture, and gives your yard a finished look that complements a healthy lawn. If you are looking for complete lawn care support this spring, a professional service can handle the full checklist while you enjoy the results.

How Do You Assess Lawn Damage from Winter Freeze Events in North Texas?

North Texas sees hard freeze events most winters, and the severe cold that periodically strikes the DFW area can cause significant lawn damage even in warm-season grass zones. Before diving into spring treatments, assess the full extent of any winter damage. Brown areas that are slow to green up relative to the surrounding lawn indicate freeze damage, grub damage, or soil compaction issues. Hold off on assumptions until early April — Bermuda grass in DFW is notoriously slow to wake up in areas with full sun exposure compared to partially shaded patches, and differences can persist for weeks as soil temperatures equalize. Dead patches with no green-up by mid-April typically require renovation: removal of dead material, soil amendment if needed, and either overseeding with a fine-blade Bermuda variety or sodding. Do not fertilize areas that are completely dead — nutrients cannot revive dead grass. Thinning across the entire lawn after a mild freeze usually just needs time, nitrogen, and water. Be patient through March and apply your first fertilizer only after you see consistent green growth. Aggressive dethatching or power raking on a lawn that went into winter already thin can do more damage than good — wait until the grass is visibly growing. For homes in low-lying areas or near bodies of water, frost pocket damage is common and typically appears as consistently thin strips or circular dead areas. These areas may benefit from overseeding with a cold-tolerant Bermuda variety if they repeatedly fail to recover following winter events.

What Is the Most Common Spring Lawn Mistake North Texas Homeowners Make?

By a significant margin, the most common spring lawn mistake in DFW is applying pre-emergent too late. When homeowners see crabgrass emerging in April or May and realize they missed the February-March window, there is often a temptation to apply pre-emergent anyway as damage control. Pre-emergent does not affect seeds that have already germinated. Once you see the plant, pre-emergent is completely ineffective for that season's crabgrass. The plant must be treated with a post-emergent quinclorac product while young (fewer than three tillers), or managed through mechanical removal and summer competition from dense turf. Missing pre-emergent timing is not a catastrophe, but it costs more to correct than to prevent. The second most common mistake is fertilizing too early before the grass is actively growing. Applying fertilizer to dormant or barely-greening Bermuda feeds the weeds that are already active while your grass cannot yet absorb the nutrients. Wait for consistent green-up across at least 70 percent of the lawn before the first fertilizer application — typically late March to mid-April in the DFW area depending on the year. The third most common mistake is mowing at the wrong height after the scalp. Many homeowners scalp in early March (correctly) and then immediately raise their mower back to summer height for the first regular mow. Keeping the mower at a low-to-medium height through April and gradually raising it to summer height as the lawn thickens produces a denser, more competitive turf than jumping to full summer height before the stand has filled in.

How Does Spring Irrigation Startup Affect Your Full-Season Efficiency?

Spring is the right time to audit your irrigation system before it is running daily in summer heat. An inefficient system wastes hundreds of gallons per week, raises your water bill, and contributes to overwatered areas that develop fungus, pest pressure, and turf disease. Walk each zone while it runs and look for: broken heads that spray in the wrong direction or cannot rotate properly, heads stuck in the down position that are not popping up to full height, overspray onto pavement from heads that are out of alignment or set too wide, and dry spots in the middle of zones that indicate a missing head or low pressure problem. In DFW, most municipalities enforce twice-per-week watering restrictions, so making each watering cycle count matters. Set run times to deliver one inch per cycle rather than running for ten minutes per zone. Adjust your controller to account for rainfall using either a rain sensor or a smart controller that integrates weather data. If your system was installed more than seven years ago, a professional inspection by an irrigation technician is a worthwhile spring investment. Catching a broken head or stuck valve before summer means you do not discover the problem as a surprise on a water bill in August after the component has been running continuously for days.

How Does a Completed Spring Checklist Improve Your Home's Curb Appeal?

Curb appeal is not just about selling a home — it affects how you feel about the property every time you pull into the driveway, what your neighbors think, and in HOA communities, whether you receive compliance notices. A completed spring checklist transforms the entire exterior of the property from winter-worn to actively maintained. A dense, green, weed-free lawn is the single largest contributor to curb appeal for most residential properties in North Texas. When the lawn is healthy, thick, and uniform, it makes the entire lot look larger and more finished. When it is patchy, brown, or weed-ridden, it makes the home look neglected regardless of how nice the structure itself is. The spring checklist creates the foundation: pre-emergent prevents the weed pressure that will fight the lawn all summer, proper fertilization provides the nutrition that produces density, aeration allows the root system to develop fully, and correct mowing height keeps the turf competitive. Pairing lawn care with exterior cleaning — a house wash to remove winter grime and pollen, a driveway cleaning, fresh mulch in the beds, and gutter clearing after spring storms — completes the picture. CARE handles both the lawn care program and the house washing for North Texas homeowners who want to complete the full spring checklist without managing multiple vendors. Coordinating lawn care, exterior cleaning, and gutter service through a single provider means every item is done in the right sequence and you are not chasing multiple schedules across the busiest property maintenance month of the year. Spring is the most in-demand season for all exterior services in DFW, so booking early — by February for March and April service windows — ensures you get scheduled before wait times stretch into late April or May when pollen is already coating everything. A yard that enters summer with a clean exterior, a pre-emergent barrier in place, active fertilization underway, and a properly calibrated irrigation system is set up to look its best with minimal reactive intervention all the way through October. The spring checklist is not just about the current month — it is the foundation for a low-stress, great-looking property all season long. Get the timing right in March, April, and May, and July and August become maintenance rather than damage control.

Ready for spring? CARE offers complete lawn care programs for North Texas homeowners — from pre-emergent applications to weekly mowing. Request your free quote and let us handle the checklist.

Related: Bermuda and St. Augustine lawn care • lawn aeration • fertilization • weed control

Need Professional Help with Your Property?

Free quotes, local, family-owned, transparent pricing.

Get a Free Quote

What Are the Most Frequently Asked Questions?

When should I apply pre-emergent in North Texas?
Apply pre-emergent herbicide in late February to early March in the DFW area, before soil temperatures consistently reach 55 degrees Fahrenheit. A second application in mid-September helps prevent winter annual weeds. Timing is critical because once you see weeds, pre-emergent is too late.
When should I start mowing my Bermuda grass in spring?
In North Texas, plan for your first mow in mid to late March once you see consistent green-up. Bermuda grass breaks dormancy when soil temperatures stay above 60 degrees for several consecutive days. Scalp the lawn to about half an inch in early March to remove dead material and let sunlight reach the soil.
Why do live oaks drop leaves in spring instead of fall?
Live oaks are semi-evergreen. They hold their leaves through winter and shed them in March and April as new growth pushes old leaves off. This is normal and healthy. In the DFW area, live oak leaf drop creates a significant spring cleanup need that many homeowners from other regions do not expect.

Restore Your Curb Appeal to Raise Property Value

Local, insured, family-owned. Real prices. No runaround.

Request a free quote (945) 275-8031